Biratu by Lee Meredith

Biratu

Knitting
May 2013
Aran (8 wpi) ?
3.25 stitches = 1 inch
in stockinette
US 10 - 6.0 mm
440 - 800 yards (402 - 732 m)
small{medium, large} with custom options
English
This pattern is available for $7.00 USD
buy it now or visit pattern website

This pattern includes 2 versions - the fully cabled shawl, in aran weight yarn, and a simple variation with cables only around the edges, which is for any weight yarn and custom sizable.

Biratu uses the same construction concepts as Betiko, and is part of the Betiko collection, which includes 4 patterns total, all with complex versions and simple variations included, like this one.

This pattern includes photo tutorials for cabling without a cable needle, the shadow wraps short rows method, the provisional cast-on, process photos and diagrams, and detailed notes on sizing, the construction, the cables, etc. All this makes for a lengthy pdf, but the written pattern itself is on 4 photo-less pages, and the charts are all on 2 pages, with an extra page of more detailed cable descriptions if you need them.

All the cable designs are charted, and the edge cables are also written, so you can choose whether or not to use charts if you make the simple shawl.

from the pattern…

This intensely cabled shawl, in squishy aran weight yarn, features intricate cables running throughout every section, and around all the edges. But wait, don’t let those words scare you, as you can also make the simple version, without all the intensity and intricacy, in any weight yarn you like; just the fun cable twists running around all the edges, with an easy body.

The parts of either version are connected modularly, using short rows, no picked up stitches or seaming. The wedges, which help it flare out into a big U shape, are filled with seed stitch.

All versions and sizes of Biratu are rounded - the fully cabled shawl is more deep/taller height, while the simple version is wider/shorter height, but fully customizable. No matter how huge your shawl is, you’ll only ever cast on 16 stitches total, and bind off about 6 stitches. All other stitches will be added and subtracted with increases, decreases, and short rows.

This design uses the same construction as the Betiko shawl; Betiko is a Basque name meaning eternal, as that shawl is forever customizable, and Biratu is a Basque word for twist or rotate, as cables do.

You need
estimates are for sizes small{medium, large}

  • for fully cabled version: approx 440{620, 800} yards / 400{570, 740} meters aran weight yarn
  • -- approx 350{500, 650} yards / 320{460, 600} meters in main color yarn
  • -- approx 90{120, 150} yards / 80{110, 140} meters in contrasting edge color yarn
  • -- the medium size sample used Quince & Co Osprey, 3 skeins in Storm, 1 skein in Frank’s Plum
  • for fully cabled version: size US 10 / 6mm long circular needle (60” is ideal, but 32” or longer will work), or size to get gauge
  • for simple variation: enough yarn in any weight, mostly in main color, approx 1 skein worth in contrasting edge color yarn; very approximate estimates here are for main color yarn
  • -- bulky: 240{290, 340} yards / 220{265, 310} meters
  • -- worsted: 310{390, 470} yards / 280{360, 430} meters
  • -- sport: 340{430, 520} yards / 310{390, 475} meters
  • -- fingering: 400{510, 620} yards / 370{470, 570} meters
  • -- the medium size sample used Quince & Co Lark worsted, 3 skeins in Frost, 1 skein in Split Pea
  • for simple variation: needles sized to match yarn - a long circular (60” is ideal, 32” or longer will work)
  • crochet hook for provisional cast-on
  • 12 stitch markers (10 the same color/type, 2 different from those and each other)
  • a cable needle if you choose to use one

Gauge

  • For aran weight fully cabled version: 3.25 sts per inch / 2.5 cm, in stockinette.
  • For simple variation, use any weight yarn for any gauge (the sample shown is worsted, with a gauge of 4 sts per inch). There is no need to make a gauge swatch or measure your gauge at all for this version.

Sizing/shape

The fully cabled and simple versions of the shawl differ in sizing/shape, as the simple version is much more customizable. The small{medium, large} sizes for the two versions are very different from each other, the fully cabled being larger in all sizes.

The fully cabled version will get both wider and deeper the bigger you make it, as you add to the entire shawl, the full body from edge to edge.

The simple variation sizes given make for a more narrow shape, longer width with a shorter height, but the size and shape can be customized as you like.

Fully cabled small{medium, large} measurements as the pattern is written will block out to approx:

  • 52{60, 68} inches / 132{152, 172} cm wide (with top edge measured held in a straight line)
  • 12{16, 20} inches / 30{40, 50} cm high (in center) Of course, you can also adjust the size of the fully cabled version by changing the gauge if you want to, making larger or smaller sizes with different weights.

The simple pattern variation can be made in any size you like, and you can customize the shape specifics as well. Simple version small{medium, large} measurements as the pattern is written will block out to approx:

  • 45{55, 65} inches / 115{140, 165} cm wide (with top edge measured in a straight line)
  • 9{11, 13} inches / 23{28, 33} cm high (in center)

Colors/yarns

The pattern is designed to use one solid yarn for the whole body, sections 1-3, and then a contrasting solid color for section 4, the outer edging. If you are making the fully cabled version, it’s recommended that you stick with these yarn types, using true solids.

If you are making the simple variation, feel free to experiment a little with colors - a self-striping yarn with long color sections might look cool, especially a long gradient type yarn (slowly changing colors throughout the whole skein). Striping isn’t recommended, since stripes would conflict with the edging cables, which are worked in every section except for section 2. Or, a semi-solid (like a kettle dyed or hand-dyed yarn) would work nicely for the body of the simple version. A true solid (or almost solid) is recommended for the outer edge since that cable design is a bit more complex.