The Stamford Sweater is a relaxed raglan sweater with a distinctive button-up neckline and a high collar worked in 1x1 rib available in feminine and masculine sizing. The yoke is worked flat and includes some German short-row shaping around the neckline and compound increases to get a better fit across the chest and shoulders. When the yoke is complete, you will put the sleeve stitches to rest and begin to work the body flat. When the button placket is your preferred depth (there are three suggested options), you will join to work the body in the round. You will then apply the collar to the neckline and then work both sleeves in the round.

This pattern has been tech edited by Rebecca Williamson. Should you require pattern support, please contact me by email. The pdf has been formatted for A5 paper. If you would like me to resize this for you for printing, let me know.

Please also note that this pattern has been graded for feminine body types. However, I have also had it professionally graded for masculine body types and am aiming to have it ready for testing by mid-January for an autumn update.

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Materials & Fit

Notions: You will need 3 mm / US 2.5 (40- and 80-cm / 16- and 32-in cord) and 4 mm / US 6 (40-, 60-, and 80-cm / 16-, 24- and 32-in cord circular needles. You will also need at least 8 stitch markers, a darning needle, and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for the resting sleeve stitches. You will also need 5 buttons, measuring approximately 2.5 cm / 1 in in length/diameter. I used these buttons by Hemline: https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/hemline-wood-novelty-wooden-...

Please note that as the yoke is worked flat, you could just use circular needles with an 80- or 100-cm / 32- or 40-in cord to make this garment, as long as you are comfortable using the Magic Loop method for the sleeves. Personally, I worked the yoke and body of my sample on a 60-cm / 24-in needle and the sleeves on a 40-cm / 16-in cord but this totally depends on your personal preference and available materials.

Tension: 20 stitches x 30 rows/rounds in Stockinette stitch on 4 mm / US 6 = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in.

• The following information applies to the feminine version of the Stamford Sweater:

Yarn: You will need approximately 950 (1,010) 1,070 (1,130), 1,180 (1,250) 1,310 (1,370), 1,490 (1,600) 1,700 (1,820) m / 1,030 (1,100) 1,170 (1,230), 1,290 (1,370) 1,430 (1,500), 1,630 (1,750) 1,870 (1,990) yds of both a DK- and a lace-weight yarn if working with 2 strands, or a worsted-weight yarn if working with a single strand. Please note that I have rounded all figures given here up to the nearest 10 m / 10 yds for ease of reading.

For my sample, I used Isager Jensen (100% wool; 100 g = 250 m / 273.5 yds) and Isager Silk Mohair (75% kid mohair, 25% silk; 25 g = 212 m / 232 yds) in the shades 44s and 54 respectively.

If you want to use the same yarns, this works out to be 4 (4-5) 5 (5), 5 (5-6) 6 (6), 6 (7) 7 (8) 100-g hanks of Isager Jensen, and 5 (5) 5-6 (6), 6 (6) 7 (7), 7-8 (8) 8-9 (9) balls of Isager Silk Mohair. You are very welcome to use other yarns.

If you are using a different yarn, more or less any combination of DK- and lace-weight yarns, or any worsted-weight yarn should work nicely here.

My sample is Size C, worn with 9 cm / 3.5 in positive ease on my 89 cm / 35 in bust. It is also 10 cm / 4 in shorter in length through the body than the recommended lengths given below, as I prefer a more cropped fit for my body type.

Sizing and ease: The Stamford Sweater has a recommended positive ease of 8–13 cm / 3.25–5 in for Sizes A-H and 8-18 cm / 3.25-7 in for Sizes I-L around the chest (or the widest part of your torso). However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa.

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)

Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm): 88 (93) 98 (103), 108 (113) 118 (123), 133 (143) 153 (163)
Actual circumference of garment at chest (in): 34.75 (36.75) 38.5 (40.5), 42.5 (44.5) 46.5 (48.5), 52.25 (56.25) 60.25 (64.25

Yoke depth (cm): 16.5 (18.5) 19.5 (20.5), 22 (23.5) 23.5 (23.5), 23.5 (23.5) 24 (25.5)
Yoke depth (in): 6.5 (7.25) 7.5 (8.25), 8.75 (9) 9 (9), 9 (9) 9.5 (10)

Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm): 55 (57) 58 (60), 61.5 (63) 64.5 (66), 67 (68) 69 (70)
Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (in): 21.75 (22.5) 22.75 (23.5), 24.25 (24.75) 25.5 (26), 26.5 (26.75) 27.25 (27.5)

Sleeve circumference at bicep (cm): 31.5 (32) 33.5 (35), 36 (37.5) 38.5 (40), 43.5 (47.5) 51 (53.5)
Sleeve circumference at bicep (in): 12.25 (12.5) 13.25 (13.75), 14.25 (14.75) 15.25 (15.75), 17.25 (18.75) 20 (21)

Sleeve length (cm): 48
Sleeve length (in): 19

• The following information applies to the masculine version of the Stamford Sweater:

Yarn: You will need approximately 1170 (1220) 1270 (1330), 1380 (1430) 1480 (1550), 1560 (1690) 1780 (1900) m 1280 (1330) 1390 (1450), 1500 (1570) 1620 (1700), 1750 (1850) 1940 (2080) yds of both a DK- and a lace-weight yarn if working with 2 strands, or a worsted-weight yarn if working with a single strand. Please note that I have rounded all figures given here up to the nearest 10 m 10 yds for ease of reading.

I would recommend using Isager Jensen (100% wool; 100 g = 250 m / 273.5 yds) and Isager Alpaca 1 (100% alpaca; 50 g = 400 m / 437.5 yds). If you wanted to use the recommended yarns, this works out to be 5 (5) 5 (5), 6 (6) 6 (6), 6 (7) 7 (8) 100-g hanks of Isager Jensen, and 3 (3) 3-4 (4), 4 (4) 4 (4), 4 (4-5) 5 (5) balls of Isager Alpaca 1.

If you are using a different yarn, more or less any combination of DK- and lace-weight yarns, or any worsted-weight yarn should work nicely here.

Sizing and ease: The Stamford Sweater has a recommended positive ease of 13 cm 5.25 in around the chest (or the widest part of your torso). However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa.

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

To fit chest circumference (cm): 80 (85) 90 (95), 100 (105) 110 (115), 120 (130) 140 (150)
To fit chest circumference (in): 31.5 (33.5) 35.5 (37.5), 39.25 (41.25) 43.25 (45.25), 47.25 (51.25) 55 (59)

Chest circumference of garment (cm): 93 (98) 103 (108), 113 (118) 123 (128), 133 (143) 153 (163)
Chest circumference of garment (in): 36.5 (38.5) 40.5 (42.5), 44.5 (46.5) 48.5 (50.5), 52.25 (56.25) 60.25 (64.25)

Yoke depth (cm): 24.5 (25.5) 26 (26.5), 26.5 (27.5) 28.5 (28.5), 30.5 (31.5) 32 (33.5)
Yoke depth (in): 9.75 (10) 10.25 (10.5), 10.5 (11) 11.25 (11.25), 12 (12.5) 12.75 (13.25)

Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm): 62.5 (62.5) 63.5 (63.5), 64 (64.5) 64.5 (65.5), 66 (66) 66 (67.5)
Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (in): 24.75 (24.75) 25 (25), 25.25 (25.5) 25.5 (25.75), 26 (26) 26 (26.5)

Sleeve circumference at bicep (cm): 34.5 (36.5) 37.5 (39), 40.5 (42.5) 43 (45.5), 47 (49) 52.5 (55.5)
Sleeve circumference at bicep (in): 13.5 (14.25) 14.75 (15.25), 16 (16.75) 17 (18), 18.5 (19.25) 20.75 (21.75)

Sleeve length (cm): 52.5
Sleeve length (in): 20.25

A word on button placket length for both the feminine and the masculine versions of the pattern: During the test knit of this sweater, different knitters had their own preferences for how deep the button placket should be. As such, both versions of the pattern contain suggestions for when to join your work in the round. This can easily be adapted to suit your personal preferences, and I am always happy to help via email.

Techniques include German short rows, leaning increases and decreases, picking up stitches along vertical and horizontal edges (including with a long tail), working flat and in the round, and working a tubular cast-off.

This isn’t a particularly challenging pattern, but it probably isn’t suitable for beginners either. I’m always happy to offer pattern support where possible.