Jamieson is a tunic-style garment inspired by one of the earliest forms of knitted outer garment – the Spencer. When I was invited to study historical textiles in the Shetland Museum, this garment is one of the pieces I chose to recreate and write a pattern for. Originally featured in The Vintage Shetland Project, this classic pattern is now available as a PDF download for the first time.

Jamieson is knitted in the round from the bottom up commencing with a decorative lacework section, before continuing in stocking stitch. Once the armholes are reached, the sweater is divided into front and back pieces and knitted back and forth. The shoulders are joined using the three-needle cast-off method and then the sleeves are picked up around the armhole and knitted downwards in the round. The neckline is knitted with an unusual i-cord edging that requires an additional DPN to be used and a second skein of yarn. A Moss (Seed) st panel is worked across the shoulders and a garter stitch edging alongside both armholes. The body and sleeves have false seams created by working a purl stitch at the seam points. A ballerina length sleeve as was typical of Spencers, finishes the look. All these added details provide real couture finishing touches to this beautiful piece.

Jamieson can be further customised to achieve the perfect fit - The body features a dropped sleeve that means the shoulder line is positioned beyond the shoulder joint; try on the garment at this point, to establish what finished sleeve length you require. Need the body shorter or longer? Length on the body can easily be removed or added during the stocking stitch section worked above the Open Work. Proportions can also be altered by working fewer repeats of the Open Work section.

Jamieson is knitted using Susan Crawford Excelana North fingering weight a soft worsted spun pure wool, perfect for replicating this historic garment whilst being suitable for wearing next to the skin. We have shown our Jamieson samples in traditional undyed natural cream yarn – Alabaster and also in Nile Green – a perfect art deco inspired blue-green.

Our models are shown wearing the 2nd size to fit 81–86cm (32–34in) chest.

The pattern includes 10 sizes to fit from 28-60inch (71-152cm) chest.

Charted instructions are provided for the Open Work Diamonds pattern. Written instructions for the Open Work Diamonds Pattern are also provided along with a comprehensive sizing chart and schematic diagram.

Kits are available at Susan Crawford Vintage.

Yarn
Susan Crawford Excelana North fingering weight, 100% British wool, 75% Cheviot, 25% Bluefaced Leicester (159m / 174yds per 50g skein approx)
6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12) skeins, shade Alabaster or Nile Green

Gauge
25 sts and 30 rows = 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch knitted in the round, before blocking. We obtained this gauge using 3.25mm needles.

Suggested needles
3.25mm (US 3) circular needle (80cm in length)
3.25mm (US 3) circular needle (40cm in length)
1 pair of 3.25mm (US 3) needles
Set of 3.25mm (US 3) DPNs

Techniques
Knitting a lace pattern
Following a chart (optional)
Basic increases and decreases
Knitting in the round
Three needle bind-off
Blocking Lace