Hilma by Lis Smith

Hilma

Knitting
September 2024
Fingering (14 wpi) ?
23 stitches and 37 rows = 4 inches
in double-knit stockinette stitch
US 3 - 3.25 mm
340 yards (311 m)
20¼”/51.5 cm unstretched circumference; 8½”/21.5 cm finished length
English
This pattern is available for $12.00 USD
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“I was inspired by the abstract floral works of Hilma af Klint and the iconic Marimekko poppy and wondered how to translate shapes with such large swathes of color into a knitting project. I felt that neither stranded colorwork nor intarsia would be entirely technically suitable and then I hit on double knitting. This technique allows long stretches between color changes, perfect for depicting a freeform design, and is ideal for working in the round. It has the added benefit, much like jacquard weaving, of producing a fabric that has the same image on the inside and the outside, just with the colors reversed! So when you’re done with your project you’ll find that you have not just one new hat, but two.” — designer, Lis Smith

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Please note: the stitch patterns used for this accessory are charted only.


Construction

  • The hat is worked circularly from the bottom up, beginning with a doubled ribbed brim.
  • Ribbing is worked to two times the desired finished length and folded in half. This allows the live stitches from the provisional cast on to provide a starting point for the inner layer of the hat while the live stitches on your main needle are ready to work the outer layer.
  • The body of the hat is worked in two-color double knitting, with one stitch from the inner layer worked after one stitch for the outer layer, in a knit 1, purl 1 pattern. Each square of the chart represents 2 stitches on the needle; one for the outer layer of fabric and one for the inner layer of fabric. Colors are switched from the inner to outer layer, and vice versa, according to the chart instructions.
  • After completion of the unshaped portion of the hat body, crown shaping is worked to close the top of the hat. Two modes of decreases will be used; one set will be worked concurrently on both layers of the hat, while the final sets of decreases will be worked one layer at a time. The final rounds of the inner layer of the hat will be finished first on one set of needles, so that the inner crown may be closed and the tail end woven in. The final rounds of the outer layer of the hat will be worked next and the hat closed to finish.

Finished Dimensions

  • 20¼”/51.5 cm unstretched circumference; 8½”/21.5 cm finished length
  • To fit head sizes 20-22”/51-56 cm

Yarn

170 yards (155 meters) each of any Brooklyn Tweed fingering weight yarn in two colors

2 skeins of Loft, one each in two colors — 275 yards (251 meters) per 50g skein

—OR—

2 skeins of Tones Light, one each in two colors — 225 yards (206 meters) per 50g skein

(or mix & match one skein of each base)

  • Sample is photographed in Tones Goldfinch Undertone (C1) & Loft Woodsmoke (C2).

Gauge

  • 23 stitches & 37 rounds per 4”/10 cm in double-knit stockinette, after blocking
  • Note: Gauge is counted over just a single layer of the double-knit fabric. 46 stitches would be worked to achieve 23 stitches of the inner or outer layer of fabric over 4”/10 cm.

Needles

  • Suggested Size: US 3 / 3.25 mm
  • 16”/40 cm circular needle
  • One set of DPNs

Tutorials for all special techniques listed below are included in the pattern:

Skill Level
3 out of 5: Intermediate