This is a GREAT stash busting sweater and a chance to play around with colors and scraps of yarn for each stripe! You can get creative with your yarn substitutes here! Just make sure you check your gauge! Happy knitting!

The yarn suggested in this pattern is just what I had in my stash, note the use of multiple weight yarns and the option of holding to finer gauge yarns together to obtain gauge! This is also a GREAT way to use up Hand Spun Yarn or scraps from other projects!

Yarn
Version 1:
Yarn A Sugarplum Circus BFL Sport Weight yarn 100% Super wash Blue faced Leicester  287 yards/ 100g skein Shown in Black Walnut approximately 500 (526, 560, 632) (685, 729, 825) (866, 963, 1010) 1062
Yarn B Spincycle Dream State yarn 100%  200 yards/ 100g skein Shown in scraps of Mississippi Marsala, Rusted Rainbow and a little of my own Hand spun yarn, approximately 160 (173, 180, 204) (220, 231, 264) (274, 304, 320) 341
Version 2:
Yarn A Sugarplum Circus Merino 4 Ply Fingering weight yarn (100% Super wash) 438yards/100 grams/ skein, approximately 500 (526, 560, 632) (685, 729, 825) (866, 963, 1010) 1062 Shown in Forbidden Forest
Yarn B Sugarplum Circus Mohair lace 72% Kid Mohair, 28% Silk 459 yards/ 50g skein approximately 500 (526, 560, 632) (685, 729, 825) (866, 963, 1010) 1062 Shown in Forbidden Forest
Yarn C Sugarplum Circus BFL Sport Weight yarn 100% Super wash Blue faced Leicester  287 yards/ 100g skein Shown in Sea Glass approximately 160 (173, 180, 204) (220, 231, 264) (274, 304, 320) 341
A note on the yarns: The Fingering weight and lace Mohair yarns are meant to be held together; Yarns A & B, while Yarn C is the contrast color for the stripes.
You can also sub a single strand of Sport or light Dk weight yarn for Yarns A & B.

Materials
US Size 6 (4.0 mm) needles, minimum 16” cord
US Size 8 (5.0 mm) needles, minimum 20” cord
A note on cord lengths, you may want to increase cord lengths as your yoke and sweater grow in size.
Stitch Marker(s)
Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements
0 (1, 2, 3) (4, 5, 6) (7, 8, 9) 10 Shown in Size 2 with 2-4” positive ease.
Finished Bust/Body Circumference: 32.4 (36, 38.4, 40.8) (44.4, 48, 52.8) (55.2, 60, 63.6) 68.4” / 82.3 (91.5, 97.5, 103.6) (112.8, 122, 134.2) (140.2, 152.4, 161.5) 173.7 cm
Height to Underarm: 11.5”/ 29.2 cm
Sleeve Circumference: 9.6 (12, 12, 12) (13.2, 14.4, 14.4) (15.6, 16.8, 18) 20.4” / 24.4 (30.5, 30.5, 30.5) (33.5, 36.6, 36.6) (40, 42.7, 45.8) 62 cm
Yoke Depth: 7.5 (7.7, 8.0, 9.6) (9.6, 9.9, 11.7) (11.7, 12, 12) 12”/ 19 (19.6, 20.3, 24.4) (24.4, 25, 30) (30, 30.5, 30.5) 30.5 cm
Yoke Depth: 7.5 (7.7, 8.0, 9.6) (9.6, 9.9, 11.7) (11.7, 12, 12) 12”
This sweater is meant to be worn with -2/4” / -5/10 cm positive ease. To pick your size, choose the finished measurement that reflects the amount of desired ease.

Gauge
20 stitches x 23 rows = 4 x 4” / 10 x 10 cm in stockinette stitch in the round with larger needles.
Notes
Abbreviations
bor= beginning of the round 
k=knit
k2tog= knit the next 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
M1L=pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the left hand needle from front to back, knit into back of stitch
LH= left hand
MC= Main Color
p= purl 
pm= place marker
RH= right hand 
RS= right side facing 
sm= slip marker
st(s)= stitch(es)
ssk = slip the next two stitches purl wise, knit these two stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
WS= wrong side facing

This sweater is worked from the top down in the round. Short rows are worked across the back to shape the shoulders. The sleeves and body are separated and worked separately down to the cuff and hem. The color work is continued from the yoke down the body and the sleeves.