Bifurca vest by Teti Lutsak

Bifurca vest

Knitting
September 2023
DK (11 wpi) ?
23 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette in the round
US 1½ - 2.5 mm
US 2½ - 3.0 mm
437 - 919 yards (400 - 840 m)
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) see more details below
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Bifurca is a cropped vest with modular construction.
The vest consists of a central panel (essentially a rectangle), worked in the round and featuring a botanical colourwork pattern, and four sides, worked sideways from the central panel and joined at the underarms. The edges of the body and armholes are finished with half twisted ribbing worked in the round.

Bifurcation means splitting of a larger whole into two smaller and separate units. Furca hence means a fork. Imagine a tree that splits in the middle into two smaller branches — that’s where the inspiration comes from. And since both the front and back are identical — it’s bifurca — two-forked.

You can take a closer look at my sample and discover the design process in episode 28 of my podcast.

Sizes

The pattern is written for nine sizes
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) to fit a finished bust circumference of ca. 73 (82, 93, 102, 113) (122, 133, 142, 153) cm / 30 (33, 38, 41, 46) (49, 54, 57, 62) in with the recommended ease from 0 (no ease) to 10-20 cm (4-8 in) of positive ease.

The sample is shown in size 2 on a 160 cm (5.3 ft) tall model with ca. 84-66-94 cm (33–26–39 in) body measurements. Depending on a bra I wear, I have from 0 to 2 cm (0.75 in) of negative ease in the bust. Check test knitter’s projects and see which fit suits your body/lifestyle better.

For more of the finished garment measurements, please refer to the schematic provided.

Yarn

  • MC: ca. 105 (121, 136, 152, 168) (186, 204, 221, 240) g or less than 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins of Semilla pura from BC Garn, 100% organic wool, with 350 m (383 yds) in 100 g, shown in colourway 04;

or ca. 366 (424, 477, 531, 589) (651, 712, 774, 839) m / 400 (463, 522, 581, 644) (712, 779, 847, 918) yds
of any other sport/DK weight yarn with a matching gauge. The estimated yardage includes 10% extra.

  • CC: ca. 28-30 g or ca. 110-120 m (120-130 yds) of any similar weight yarn.

I used leftover Woollin Heather from Wol Met Verve, 85% wool and 15% linen, with 400 m (438 yds) in 100 g, in colourway Brick.

Needles and notions

  • 2.5 mm (US 1.5) and 3.0 mm (US 2.5) circular needles;
  • spare cables, spare circular needles or scrap yarn to keep sts on hold;
  • a few stitch markers, four of which removable;
  • a tapestry needle for grafting and to weaving in the ends.

Gauge

  • 23 sts & 36 rnds in 10 cm (4 in) on 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles measured over stockinette stitch worked in the round after blocking;
  • 24 sts & 32 rnds in 10 cm (4 in) on 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles measured over colourwork pattern worked in the round after blocking;
  • 26 sts & 40 rnds in 10 cm (4 in) on 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles measured over half-twisted 1x1 ribbing worked in the round after blocking.

Adjust the needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.