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> Mariniere for Machine Knitters
Mariniere for Machine Knitters
Mix the speed and precision of your machine with a hand-knitted yoke. Soft lambswool stripes in navy and white give way to a deep intricately-patterned Fair isle yoke, using an unusual mix of jewel-like colours and peerie motifs. This is a great design for using up your leftover colours from past projects and experimenting with your own colour combinations. A flattering and chic medium-weight sweater, it has a loose, square shaping around the body, balanced out with fitted shoulders and sleeves.
Construction
Knit bottom-up, you will start by knitting 4 simple striped panels (front and back bodies + 2 sleeves) in stocking stitch on the machine. The 4 pieces are then picked up (leaving a few stitches
either side of each panel on hold for the underarm) and placed on a circular needle and the yoke is knit by hand in the round, all in one piece, gradually making decreases as you go to shape the shoulders. Underarm stitches are then grafted together and seams are sewn along the sides and up the sleeves. All trimmings (ribs) are done by hand for the complete hand-crafted look, but they can easily be done on the machine if you have a ribber. A cardigan version is possible by knitting the front panel in two halves and then knitting the yoke flat, so you have an opening down the middle. Instructions are also given for this version.
Sizes
XS (S, M, L, XL)
This sweater has been designed with 20-30 cm (8-16
inches) of positive ease in the body and 4 cm (1.5
inches) of positive ease in the sleeves.
Measurements
• Body circumference: 103 (113, 124, 135, 143)
cm / 40.5 (44.5, 49, 53, 56.5) inches.
• Body length: 24 (26, 28.5, 30.5, 33) cm /9.5
(10.25, 11.25, 12, 13) inches.
• Sleeve length (from armpit-cuff): 43 (43, 45,
47, 49.5) cm / 17 (17, 18, 18.5, 19.5) inches.
• Sleeve circumference: 33 (35, 37, 39.5, 42) cm
/ 13 (14, 14.75, 15.75, 16.5) inches.
• Yoke depth: 23.5 (24.5, 25, 26.5, 27.5) cm/
9.25 (9.25, 10, 10.5, 10.75) inches.
Meterage Needed
• 915 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) m / 1000
(1100, 1200, 1300, 1400) yards of MC
• 450 (500, 550, 640, 730) m / 500 (550, 600,
700, 800) yards of CC
• Approximately 365 (365, 450, 550, 640) m /
400 (400, 500, 600, 700) yards total of 20
contrasting colours for the yoke.
Machine And Gauge
• Knitted on a standard-gauge Silver Reed /
Knitmaster / Empisal
• Main Tension for stripes (on 0): 8
• Machine-knit Gauge: 26 stitches and 40 rows
to 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches)
• Hand knit Gauge in Fair Isle: 26 stitches and
36 rows to 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches)
• Your hand knitting and machine gauge
should be similar in width- it’s always best to do swatching using both techniques and change needles/adjust your machine gauge as necessary.
Yarn
• Z. Hinchcliffe & sons 2/17 Lambswool, 2
strands held together from Uppingham yarns
(wools.co.uk). Front page photo uses ‘Indigo
Melange’ (MC) and ‘Ecru’ (CC).
Or any super-fine or fingering-weight yarn that
knits to a similar gauge. I prefer a nonsuperwash
wool that will bloom and blend with
the other yarns around it once washed.
Note on yoke yarn
Use oddments of any similar-weight yarn: this
includes sock, fingering and baby yarns in 20
colours (see yoke charts). My sample included
“Mimosa”, “Dog rose” (pale pink),
“Tundra” (mid brown), “Laurel” (pale
heathered green), “Turf ” (Dark heathered
green), “Cardinal” (dark pink-red), “Cyclamen”
(dusty pink) and “Petrol” (bright blue) from
Jamieson’s of Shetland Spindrift (not held
double). The remaining colours were left-overs
from my yarn basket.
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- First published: March 2024
- Page created: March 29, 2024
- Last updated: May 17, 2024 …
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