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> Foglietti Cardigan
Foglietti Cardigan
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SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) {6, 7, 8, 9, 10}
Finished circumference at bottom hem:
81.5 (91.5, 102, 112, 122) {132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5} cm /
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) {52, 56, 60, 64, 68}”
CONSTRUCTION
FOGLIETTI is worked mostly seamlessly from the bottom up. After completing the lower body, the fronts and back are worked separately and joined at the shoulders. By picking up stitches along the selvedge edge of the upper body and using a nifty little joining trick to ensure the “up and down” stitch pattern is maintained correctly, the dolman sleeves are worked seamlessly in the round. The pattern includes options for creating cap sleeves, cropped sleeves, or loooong billowing sleeves. The collar is worked separately and incorporates short row shaping at the shoulders and V-neck to ensure a great fit. It is seamed on at the end (this, and closing up the shoulders, is the only bit of seaming required!).
SHAPE & FIT
FOGLIETTI is a drapey, loose-fitting garment which can be worn open-fronted or closed with a shawl pin. It is intended to sit below the hip at the back, while the front is cropped and asymmetrical to create a faux “French tuck”. The collar is quite wide, and the shoulders are dropped to show off the lace. This garment also has deep underarms with a beautiful curve and a ribbed cuff that can be folded if desired.
CHOOSING A SIZE
FOGLIETTI doesn’t use the standard “bust circumference” measurement to determine size. This is because the deep armhole cut on the sleeves give you plenty of ease built in around the upper torso. Instead, to find your size this design encourages you to:
- (get to) know your overall body shape
- think about how you’d like to wear this garment.
The pattern includes a step-by-step guide to choosing a size, as well as some brief explanations on what might work for different body shapes.
YARN
The Fibre Co. Cumbria Fingering (fingering weight; 60% Merino wool, 30% Masham wool, 10% mohair; 300 m / 328 yds per 100g skein) - Threlkeld
VEST - 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) {6, 6, 7, 8, 9} skeins
CARDIE (cropped sleeves) - 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 10, 11} skeins
CARDIE (long sleeves) - 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) {9, 10, 11, 12, 13} skeins
Note on the featured yarn: Although this is labelled as a fingering weight yarn, I found it behaved much more like a sport weight. It’s plump, strong, and has a slight halo. A classic fingering weight (something with 400 m / 437 yds per 100g) would give quite different results (see also “yarn alternatives” below).
Yarn Alternatives
This garment is designed for a heavy fingering to sport weight yarn. The gauge on the “up and down” stitch is fairly loose to create good drape, so for best results use a non-superwash fibre with a natural halo (i.e. something that looks a bit fuzzy) and which will bloom with blocking. Otherwise, any fibre with a soft handle and a gentle drape will produce good results. Holding together a strand of lace and a strand of mohair, or using a sport weight alpaca on its own, would all work very well.
Superwash wool in particular will produce a lighter, more translucent garment. If using a (blend with) plant-based fibre such as cotton or linen, or a superwash wool, consider shortening the length of the body and the sleeves by 2cm /½” to avoid excessive stretching over time.
In all cases, I recommend you always store your cardigan flat rather than on a hanger.
Yardage required
VEST - 900 (900, 1200, 1500, 1500) {1800, 1800, 2100, 2400, 2700} m / 990 (990, 1315, 1640, 1640) {1970, 1970, 2300, 2625, 2955} yds of sport weight yarn
CARDIE (cropped sleeves) - 1200 (1200, 1500, 1800, 1800) {2100, 2400, 2700, 3000, 3300} m / 1315 (1315, 1640, 1970, 1970) {2300, 2625, 2955, 3330, 3610} yds of sport weight yarn
CARDIE (long sleeves) - 1500 (1500, 1800, 2100, 2400) {2700, 3000, 3300, 3600, 3900} m / 1640 (1640, 1970, 2300, 2625) {2955, 3330, 3610, 3940, 4265} yds of sport weight yarn
HOOKS, NEEDLES + NOTIONS
3.5mm hook, or as required to obtain gauge
Wool needle
2 removable stitch markers
GAUGE
17 sts x 17 rows = 10 cm / 4” in Up & Down stitch, measured after wet blocking.
21 sts x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4” in HTC 3rd loop ribbing, measured after wet blocking.
One rep of Leaf Lace pattern to measure 8.5 x 5.5 cm
Note: both the ribbing and the lace pattern are very stretchy, so measuring gauge is not an exact science. You will be able to block them (quite aggressively if necessary) to your desired measurements. On the other hand, getting both the row and stitch gauge for the U&D stitch right is important.
TECHNIQUES TO ENJOY
Foundation stitches
Short rows
Increasing & decreasing
Filet lace
HTC 3rd loop ribbing
Seaming
PATTERN INCLUDES
- Clear written instructions in UK terms
- Stitch diagrams
- Professionally tech-edited & test-crocheted instructions
- UK to US term conversion chart
- Step-by-step instructions for measuring, and choosing a size & fit
- Step-by-step illustrations of the garment construction method
- Two PDF files: one mobile-friendly version, and one easy-print/tablet version
SPECIAL THANKS
My deepest gratitude to The Fibre Co for providing yarn support, my editor Deb, and all the lovely testers who gave their time.
SHARING IS CARING
Share your makes using the #foglietticardigan and #emmyandlien hashtags, and tagging @emmyandlien on social media.
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- First published: March 2022
- Page created: March 15, 2022
- Last updated: February 7, 2023 …
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