When you want a sweater with a touch of something special, Flairey is your choice! The majority of the sweater is worked in simple stockinette stitch, but the cuffs and hems are jazzed up with an easy bobble and lace pattern. The result is a better-than-basic throwover that goes with jeans, skirts, leggings, and anything you want to layer it with – including its sister, the Flairey Cardigan!

SIZES
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) {6, 7, 8, 9}

FINISHED FULL BUST / HIP CIRCUMFERENCES
29.5 (33.5, 37.5, 41.25, 45.25) {49.25, 53.25, 57, 61}” / 75 (85, 95, 105, 115) {125, 135, 145, 155}cm

It is recommended to choose a size that will give you between -2 and +2” / -5 and +5cm of ease at your full bust point. Sample pictured is Size 3, worn with 0” / 0cm of ease (on a 37.5” / 95cm full bust). If you are between sizes through the full bust point, it is recommended to choose a size based on your preferred finished upper sleeve circumference.

YARN
See Notes (final note) for more details about yardage requirements.
1045 (1180, 1325, 1475, 1595) {1740, 1870, 2050, 2175}yds / 955 (1080, 1210, 1350, 1460) {1590, 1710, 1875, 1990}m
of heavy fingering weight / 4ply yarn. As this sweater is knit at a loose gauge for fingering weight / 4ply yarn, please swatch carefully with thinner yarns to ensure you are happy with the “airiness” of the finished fabric.

Sample was knit using Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 4ply (100% wool; 787yds / 720m per 200g) in colourway 307 Slate.

NEEDLES & HOOKS
– For main fabric: US 5 / 3.75mm needle, OR size to obtain gauge, 24–47” / 60–120cm length circular needle (use a shorter length needle than finished waist measurement of sweater), plus optional double-pointed needles for sleeves (you will need an at least 32“ / 80cm length circular needle if you wish to knit the sleeves using the Magic Loop method of working in the round)
– For hem, cuffs and neckband: US 4 / 3.5mm needle, OR 1 size smaller than size to obtain gauge, 24–47” / 60–120cm length circular needle, plus optional double-pointed needles for cuffs and neckband (you will need an at least 32“ / 80cm length circular needle if you wish to knit the cuffs and neckband using the Magic Loop method of working in the round)
– Optional for bobbles: US E / 3.5mm crochet hook OR equivalent size to smaller needle (see Stitch Help, page 3 of pdf)

NOTIONS
– 2 lengths of waste yarn or spare interchangeable needle cables
– 8 fixed stitch markers, plus 1 in a different colour or style to mark beginning of round
– Removable stitch markers or progress keepers
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Tapestry needle

GAUGE
24 stitches x 32 rounds = 4” / 10cm square in stockinette stitch using larger size needle, worked in the round and relaxed after blocking – Any variations in gauge may affect your final yardage requirements and measurements!

Note: Sometimes when we work a small circumference in the round, our tension can tighten up. If this occurs while you are knitting your sleeves, you will need to adjust your needle size accordingly (going up 1 needle size tends to help enough) so that the blocked stockinette gauge of your sleeves will also match the blocked stockinette gauge of your sweater body.

When swatching, it is also recommended to take note of your pre-blocked gauge so that you know how much your finished garment will stretch after blocking. This difference is particularly useful to know if you like measuring your project to check its lengths while knitting, instead of counting the rows worked.

NOTES
– Flairey is worked seamlessly from the top down. Stitches for the back, fronts, sleeves and raglan seams are cast on first and worked flat. When the neckline increases are completed, the fronts of the sweater are joined in the round, and the shaping is continued along the raglan seams only. Then, when all of the remaining increases are completed, the sleeve stitches are placed on hold, stitches are cast on at the underarm points, and the body and hem of the sweater are worked in the round. Each set of sleeve stitches is then returned one at a time to the needles, with stitches picked up and knit at the underarms, and the sleeves and cuffs are worked top down, in the round. Lastly, stitches are picked up and knit along the neckline of the sweater, and the neckband is worked in the round.

– Instructions are provided in a fully written format, with optional charts for the bobble and lace details, and additional diagram and table representations of the raglan and neckline shaping.

– The subtle waist and hip shaping included in the pattern is entirely optional. The yardages given are for a sweater knit without waist and hip shaping to ensure you’ll have enough yarn to complete your project, whether including the shaping or not (sample is shown with shaping). See BODY instructions (page 8 of pdf) for more details on this, as well as details on altering the length of your sweater (altering the length may affect your yardage requirements). You can also alter the length of your sleeves if desired – see SLEEVES instructions (page 9 of pdf) for details.

VIDEO TUTORIAL LINKS INCLUDED IN THIS PATTERN
– Long tail cast on method
– Cable cast on method, purl version
– Bind off
– MB: Make Bobble (choice of crocheted and knitted versions)