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Surround yourself in squishy, slip stitch cables with the Bridgeland Pullover; inspired by the all-over texture of the traditional fisherman sweater. The delicate cabling creates an elegant, textured fabric and can even be knit without a cable needle! This pattern is both written and charted.

• Read more about this design at knitsnknots.ca/bridgeland-pullover.
• You may also like the sister patterns, the Bridgeland Beanie, the Bridgeland Wrap.

Shop the Lion Brand knit kit here! Kit comes in your desired size and colorway with a free copy of the PDF pattern!

This pattern is #SizeInclusive. Please see photos to view full sizing chart with schematic, all measurements, and the recommended ease.

MATERIALS
Yarn: Worsted—Lion Brand Wool-Ease in colorway Linen

• 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool
• 197 yds (180 m) per 3 oz (85 g) skein
• Find this yarn on lionbrand.com or visit yarnsub.com to find comparable substitutes.

Yardage Required: 7 (7, 8, 9, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) skeins for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X), or

• 1250 (1350, 1500, 1650, 1825) (2000, 2200, 2400, 2650) yds
• 1143 (1234, 1372, 1508, 1668) (1828, 2011, 2194, 2422) m

If substituting Lion Brand Wool-Ease, choose any similar, category #4, worsted weight yarn that matches gauge. Always swatch before beginning to ensure you are happy with the resulting fabric.

Notions: Tapestry needle, cable needle (optional), 1 fixed stitch marker to mark BOR, 2 locking/removable stitch markers, scrap yarn or stitch wire/holder for placing a large amount of stitches on hold.

Main Gauge Needle - Size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Ribbing Needle - Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) or size that is 1.5 mm smaller than Main Gauge Needle

with the following suggested cord lengths:

• 12-16” (30-40 cm) cord for parts of the yoke and upper sleeves
• 16-24” (40-61 cm) cord for neckline ribbing
• 32-40” (80-100 cm) cord for yoke and body, or cord long enough to accommodate all body sts for your size
• 8-9” (20-23 cm) circulars, DPNs, or your preferred method of smaller circumference knitting for the lower sleeve and cuffs. You can also use the magic loop method to complete the sleeves using a longer cord length, if preferred.

GAUGE
6 x 6” (15 x 15 cm) = 36 sts (a little over 4 cable repeats) and 36 rows in cable pattern, blocked.

For gauge swatch, cast on 48 sts and work the Bridgeland Cable Repeat (knit flat) shown on page 5 of the pattern. See Chart A. Block your swatch and let it dry before measuring gauge.

This cable pattern tends to shrink up like ribbing before blocking. You should be able to achieve gauge with a fabric that is lying flat naturally without having to stretch it too much in order to reach the full 6” (15 cm).

It is recommended to also swatch in the round since part of this pattern is knit flat while others are knit in the round. It is common for knitters’ tension to tighten when knitting in the round compared to knitting flat, and you may need to use a different needle size for each.

PATTERN NOTES
Skill Level: Advanced

Sizing: This sweater is written in nine sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Make sure to follow the numbers for your size only. The amount of ease decreases as the sizes increase. This is intentional to give all sizes the best fit possible.

Stitch Counts: Stitch counts are listed after each row/rnd in italics. If no stitch count is given, there has been no change since the previous row/rnd.

Stitch Charts: Stitch charts to accompany the written pattern can be found at the end of this document.

Construction: This sweater is worked from the top-down all in one piece. You will begin by casting on stitches for the back panel and knit until you reach your specified yoke depth. Next, you will pick up stitches along the back panel cast-on edge to knit the front right and front left shoulder before joining your two front pieces into one front panel. Stitches are cast on at the underarms and you will join your front and back pieces in the round until reaching your desired length. The neckband is worked next and the sleeves are worked last.

Tip for Counting Rows: When checking your work and counting the number of rnds/rows you have worked, it is easiest to count the number of slipped cable crosses you have completed. Each cable repeat is 6 rows.

Gauge In the Round/Flat: Be sure to read all information in the Gauge section on previous page before beginning.

RS/WS Rows: When working flat, all odd numbered rows are RS rows and all even numbered rows are WS rows.

HELPFUL LINKS INCLUDED
Backwards Loop Cast-On
Slip Slip Knit (SSK)
Tubular Bind-Off

ABBREVIATIONS
1/1 LC: 1/1 Left Cross - Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work; k1, then k1 from cable needle
1/1 RC: 1/1 Right Cross - Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work; k1, then k1 from cable needle
2/1 LC: 2/1 Left Cross - Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle
2/1 RC: 2/1 Right Cross - Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work; k2, then k1 from cable needle
BOR: beginning of round
C3F: Cable 3 forward - Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front of work, k2 from left needle, k1 off cable needle.
To do so without a cable needle: Slip the next st off your needle and hold it in front of your work, k2 from your left needle, re-insert your left needle into the dropped st (careful not to twist) and knit this st off.
C3B: Cable 3 back - Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1 from left needle, k2 off cable needle.
To do so without a cable needle: Without slipping any sts off your left needle, insert your right needle into the 3rd st on your left needle (as if to knit) and knit this stitch (this will look like your working yarn is crossing over the first 2 sts), then knit the 1st st on your left needle, then the 2nd, and slip all three sts off your left needle.
k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (right-slanting decrease)
Insert your right needle into the next 2 sts knitwise, treating them as 1, and knitting them together.
p: purl
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
RS: right side
sl1kw: slip 1 stitch knitwise
sl1pw: slip 1 stitch purlwise
ssk: slip slip knit (left-slanting single decrease) - Slip 1 st knitwise onto right needle, slip 1 more st knitwise onto right needle (this twists the orientation of two stitches), then slide them both back to your left needle. Insert right needle through the back loops of both slipped sts (from right to left) and knit them together.
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side

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